Skottinden Hiking Guide

Skottinden Lofoten Islands Norway

Photo: Reflection of Skottinden, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  September 2012

It’s another year and time for more mountain pages to be added over at 68north.com  The first for 2013 is Skottinden -CLICK HERE- to check it out.

Skottinden is one of those peaks that I’ve always thought about hiking up, likely due to its Matterhorn-like appearance, but never really got around to hiking.  Thanks to some young Germans at the hostel who had borrowed the book ‘På Tur I Lofoten’ – The best hiking guide for Lofoten Islands, though only in Norwegian, I saw where the route went.  And so, on one late September day about a month later, I found myself on the summit and watching sea eagles circle in the distance.

Skottinden Lofoten Islands Norway

Photo: Skottinden, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  September 2012

Rannoch Moor – Scotland

Sunrise at Loch Ba, Rannoch Moor, Scotland

Photo: Loch Ba sunrise, Rannoch Moor, Scotland.  January 2013

On a dark January morning, in one of the most photographed places in Scotland, Rannoch Moor, I was alone.  Even I hadn’t planned to be there, or at least not until the following morning.  But there I was, wet feet and all, walking around the boggy shores of Loch Ba as a hint of pink formed, then brightened, then grew on the southern horizon.  The following 10 minutes were probably the best light I’ve ever seen in all my travels of Scotland.

After a week of grey sunrises and grey sunsets I was beginning to get a little depressed.  It had been another bleak and stormy New Year’s journey to the Scotland’s Outer Hebrides; to be expected, but not what I was hoping for.  The plan for the drive home had been to spend one night on the Isle of Skye and then the final night in Glencoe before making the 8 hour drive south to Wales from there.  But as we departed the ferry in Uig, an unrelenting rain fell from above.  And when you walk into the supermarket and overhear the old women talking about how terrible the weather has been lately, it’s generally not a good sign.  So at that, I said goodbye to the islands and drove into the fading afternoon light that is January in Scotland.

Hours later the rain was still falling as we pulled into my favourite car-bivy spot on the road to Glen Etive, just next to what is perhaps the most iconic, and overshot, photo in Scotland, Buachaille Etive Mor.  Soon however, stars were to be seen, and a glimmer of hope arose.  But as the first hints of dawn began to break, they sky was back to cloud.  Although for the first time in a week, there was no wind.  And so I rose.

Sunrise at Loch Ba, Rannoch Moor, Scotland

Photo: Loch Ba sunrise, Rannoch Moor, Scotland.  January 2013

Lofoten Islands in February

Winter storm over snow covered beach, Unstad, Lofoten islands, Norway

Photo: Unstad beach in winter, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  January 2010

Over Christmas I bought myself just a single present, and at least one thing to look forward to in the new year:  Flights to Lofoten!

On the evening of Feb 12, I’ll land in Bodø.  I chose to fly on a Tuesday for a couple reasons.  First, because the flight was pretty cheap.  And more importantly for me, sleep.  Or more specifically, the ferry to the islands leaves Bodø at 01:30 early Wednesday morning.  And this ferry travels via the island of Væerøy instead of direct to Moskenes, which means that I’ll have to possibility of about 5 hours of somewhat comfortable sleep before arriving on the islands; the padded seats of the ferry being much more comfortable than the floor of the waiting room in Bodø.   And since I’ll have been up since about 02:00 Tuesday morning for the 3.5 hour drive to the airport from Wales, 5 hours of sleep will be much enjoyed!  And then I’m on the islands shortly before sunrise and ready for the day instead of walking around like some zombie in some sleep deprivation coma.

I haven’t booked my return ticket yet as I actually don’t know where I’ll go when I leave.  The default would be back to the UK for a few weeks before heading back to California, but I’m not sure if they’ll let me back in or not.  The other possibility would be just go directly home to California after Lofoten.  Or a third option, but more difficult option, stay in Europe a bit longer.  It’s really been on my mind to make a ski tour of the northern Kungsleden, but this will probably be a bit difficult for me logistically so might have to wait a few more years.

I’m also going to be a little more ambitious on this trip and bring my winter climbing gear (ice tools, boots/crampons, etc) and maybe try and get up a few easy mountains (solo), or if I’m lazy, just do a bit of roadside ice climbing (no lack of this in Lofoten) on days with crappy weather.  Should at least be better than sitting around the car and reading to pass the time away.  And if by some amazing chance there is a forecast for calm weather for a day or two, I might even try and camp on Reinebringen for a night.

In the past year I’ve spend 2 months north of the Arctic Circle, but for the most part, the Northern Lights eluded me.  Mostly this was down to bad luck in my timing as on numerous occasions I missed fantastic displays by only a day or two.  Or the only time I did witness a good showing, I was on a damn boat!  So fingers crossed for a little more luck this year…

Winter sunrise on frozen lake Urvatnet, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Urvatnet winter sunrise, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February 2012

ice on Nedre Heimdalsvatnet, Eggum, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Ice covers Nedre Heimdalsvatnet, Eggum, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February 2012

To The Western Isles

Luskentyre beach, Isle of Harris, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

Photo: Luskentyre beach, Isle of Harris, Scotland.  January 2011

In a few hours I’ll be headed out into a night of rain and wind to begin the 12 hour drive to the Ferry in Uig, Isle of Skye and then onwards to Berneray for our 3rd New Year on the islands.  I never really thought I would return a second time, much less a third – especially after last years weather, and with long range forecasts not looking much better this year either.  But Berneray is a nice place, and with pretty much the whole of the UK to choose from, it again seemed like the best location to welcome in 2013.  Then it will be a few more days traveling around Harris and Lewis before making the drive back south.  Though the calender puts New Year’s day just about in the middle of the trip, which means that we can’t actually spend as much time on Harris and Lewis as I would like.  But it will probably rain and blow the whole time anyhow and not matter much.  (Normally I try and remain optimistic about things, but when it comes to Hebridean weather in January, I know better.)

Anyhow, to any of you readers out there.  Happy New Year!

10 Best Landscape Photos 2012

Reine, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Night comes to Reine, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February

-10˚ C with not even a hint of wind, the end of an absolutely perfect winter day on Lofoten.  This was the first clear night after a week on the islands, so I was waiting around the Reine area in hopes of seeing some aurora’s later that night, but first, I was presented with this scene as an extra gift.  Perhaps my favourite image of the whole year, as well as the coldest day of 2012 on Lofoten.

Northern Lights - Aurora Borealis in night sky behind Olstind mountain peak, Reine, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Aurora behind Olstinden, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February

I had been waiting a week for the right conditions to hopefully make this photograph.  To me, the pyramidical peak of Olstinden, as is rises out of the cold waters of the Kjerkfjord, is an icon of the Lofoten Islands.  The Aurora wasn’t as big as I was hoping for, but it’s a start to an image that I hope to refine over my next journeys to the islands.  I think the clouds make it almost look like an erupting volcano.

Å I Lofoten, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Approaching storm, Å, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February

My last full day after two weeks on the islands was one of winter storms sweeping the lands.  One of those days when you watch the snow heading towards you, take shelter for 20 minutes, then rush out again between flurries to hopefully grab a few photo.  The cliffs here, past the village of Å, and looking west towards the end of Lofoten are one of my favourite winter locations on the islands.

Lofoten Islands winter, Norway

Photo: Ice flower, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February

Warm temperatures brought snow melting rain to the islands.  My hope of ‘snowy mountain landscapes’ was lost and I was left searching for other interesting elements of winter to photograph.   Here, in a small tidal bay near Eggum, a rock had created a ‘flower’ like shape as the ice receded.  Now that the snow was gone, this added an element of interest to what would otherwise have been a fairly flat and mundane scenic.

Reine, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Olstinden winter panoramic, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February

In the cold and the calm of this evening the surface of the fjord began to freeze over.  With the inner waters still, Olstinden reflects in near perfect symmetry.  I wish there had been a bit more interesting light to work with, but I think the subject is still strong enough for me to like this image.

Mount Whintey, Sierra Nevada Mountains, California

Photo: Camping beneath mt Whitney, California.  April

I like the contrast of my yellow tent and the deep blue of the evening sky while camped at Iceberg lake on the mountaineers route to mt. Whitney.

Horseid beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Horseid beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  August

Horseid is a brilliant, Isolated, beach on the northern coast of Lofoten.  I hiked several hours through rain and whiteouts that at first I thought I had made a mistake heading there.  But by the next morning, the rain had stopped while the dramatic skies still hung over the mountains.

 

Summer evening twilight, Stamsund, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Summer twilight over Stamsund, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  August

Even in late August, Lofoten’s sky still glows at 1am as the next day quickly approaches.  I took an evening stroll up the hill behind the hostel to check for auroras but found this scene instead.  I just stood there for a while in the stillness, glad to once again be in the north.

Kungsleden trail, Lappland, Sweden

Photo: Autumn on the Kungsleden trail, Lapland, Sweden.  September

I can feel the cold in this image (as well as remember it).  The bright reds and oranges or the small scrubs in the sub-Arctic tundra of northern Sweden’s mountain, combined with snow covered peaks and grey skies are what the Kungsleden trail in Autumn is.

Offersoykammen, Vestvagoya, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Afternoon light on Offersøykammen, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  October

After an unsuccessful afternoon of chasing light around the islands, I finally decided to head up the small peak of Offersøykammen and see what cards the weather would deal me.  As the sun neared the horizon, clouds began to rise around the mountain.  But before I was enveloped in a gray so thick I could hardly follow the trail back down, the mist lit up in the sunlight shining a golden light across the Autumn mountain landscape.

Time for another year to draw to a close, though truthfully, I can’t say it comes too soon.  2012 was a difficult year for me,  one of more setbacks than accomplishments.  A few dreams have fallen through the cracks or been put on the the back burners indefinitely, with little hopes of revival.  I also didn’t get out photographing nearly as much as I’d planned (as I write this now, I haven’t touched my camera in almost in 2 months.).  If it wasn’t for a few trips to Lofoten, I’d basically have nothing to show for the whole year; 8 of 10 images here being from the islands, although maybe that speaks more about the brilliance of Lofoten.  I felt I was often stuck in the paralysis of inaction, unable to make any decisions or move myself or my career forward.  Maybe I put myself under more pressure to return with something ‘good,’ and ironically, chose locations to travel to where this is less likely to happen.  Or maybe I’ve simply raised my standards to something that I can only rarely achieve; and thus that lack of apparent achievement continues the cycle ad infinitum.  Who knows.

On the positive side, I do think there are a few good images here.  Maybe even a couple that I’d say are some of my all time favourites.  Although I’m not sure if this isn’t more based on my memories than of the actual photo.

In a couple more days I head north to Scotland to bring in 2013 on a small little island at the edge of the world.  So here’s to a good start of the new year; one that hopefully I can find some focus and kick some ass in!

Ryten – New Mountain Hiking Guide

Ryten, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Lofoten’s northern coast from the summit of Ryten, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  August 2012

New hiking guide for Ryten -CLICK HERE- 

Ryten is one of the last peaks in the northeast tip of Moskenesøya.  But the small mountain is better known for it’s spectacular views down to Kvalvika beach.  I now have a new guide up at 68north for hiking this scenic little peak.

This will be my last update at 68north for the year, I’ll pick things back up in January with a few more hiking guides and also some more general travel ‘itinerary’ type guides and so on.  I’m also going to really put some effort into writing some more photography-specific guides to each island which I can hopefully turn into some (free) eBook’s so you can download and take with you on your photo tour of Lofoten.  Only setback will be the design aspect, which I’m not so good at…

Looking down on Kvalvika beach from near summit of Ryten, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Spectacular Kvalvika beach seen from summit of Ryten, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  August 2012

Person stands under rainbow near summit of Ryten, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Summer rain and rainbow over Ryten, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  August 2012

German Photo Gallery Update

Watzmann Berchtesgaden national park, Bavaria, Germany

Photo: Dawn comes to Watzmann, Berchtesgaden national park, Germany.  October 2012

I forgot to mention in Monday’s post that I’ve added a few more images to my German photo archive -CLICK HERE-  Other than a week in the Alps in October, I really haven’t photographed much in Germany since I left in 2009.  So I guess I was a bit overdue to add a few new images.

Evening sky over Aggenstein Allgaeu, Bavaria, Germany

Photo: Indian summer twilight at Aggenstein, Allgäu, Bavaria, Germany.  October 2012

Berchtesgaden alps germany

Photo: Afternoon light across the Alps from the summit of Schneibstain, Berchtesgaden national park, Germany.  October 2012

 

 

Himmeltindan Hiking Guide – Lofoten Islands

View from summit of Himmeltindan

Photo: View from summit of Himmeltindan, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Oct 2012

There’s now a new hiking guide for Himmeltindan over at 68north.

-CLICK HERE-

The highest mountain on Vestvågøya, Himmeltindan is a steep hike up to the 931 meters of the south summit.  The higher north summit is closed to the public, as it is used as a military radar station.  And there is actually a tunnel/elevator running inside the mountain.  On the day I hiked the peak though, there were a few army dudes at the top who said I could hike over to the north summit as the radar was down for repair that day.  I may have been a bit unlucky with the light, but at least I got access to the highest part of the mountain.  If I was in the army, I think I’d take the elevator up there to watch the northern lights, would be a pretty awesome place!

Himmeltindan and Utakleiv Lofoten Islands Norway

Photo: Himmeltindan rises above sea at Utakleiv, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Oct 2012

Islands in the Sky – Allgäu Germany

Breitenberg,  Allgäu, Bavaria, Germany

Photo: Alpine foothills rise above fog, from summit of Breitenberg, Allgäu, Germany.  Oct 2012

At the end of October I found myself cruising around the Alp foothills along the German – Austrian border.  In what is somewhat typical autumn weather in Germany, a heavy layer of fog hovered over the lowlands of Bavaria.  Luckily it only rose to about 500 meters, above that it was glorious sunny weather with temps in the mid 20’s (˚ C) with hardly a cloud to be seen.  It was actually a bit too hot for me, only having somewhat warm pants that I had used for hiking in northern Sweden where I had already experienced snow storm in the middle of September.

One of the days I headed up to Breitenberg, a small peak near the village of Pfronten.  I stayed at the Ostlerhutte, which to my surprise, I ended up being the only guest which actually felt a bit awkward for me.   In the afternoon I headed up Aggenstein, the highest peak in the area. I thought about sticking around up there until sunset, but I also didn’t want to get back to the hut too late (this was before I knew I was the only person).  Breitenberg proved to be a fairly decent spot as the fog came up right to the base of the mountain.

Breitenberg, Allgäu, Bavaria, Germany

Photo: A sea of clouds and islands of mountain, Breitenberg,  Allgäu, Bavaria, Germany.  Oct 2012

Mountains emerge above inversion layer fog, from summit of Breitenberg, Allgäu, Bavaria, Germany

Photo: Evening light from Breitenberg,  Allgäu, Bavaria, Germany.  Oct 2012

mountain shadows on inversion layer fog, from summit of Breitenberg, Allgäu, Germany

Photo: Mountain shadows in late afternoon, Breitenberg,  Allgäu, Bavaria, Germany

 

Hoven – Lofoten Islands

Hoven mountain peak, Gimsoya, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Hoven rises above marshland of Gimsøya, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  October 2012

New hiking guide for Hoven -CLICK HERE- over at 68north.com.

Hoven is a small little peak/hill that rises alone out of the boggy flats of northern Gimsøya.  It makes a nice easy hike for those days when the weather isn’t the best but maybe you still want to get outside.  The low elevation means that the summit is usually below the clouds while the other higher peaks are concealed.  And the views aren’t that bad anyhow.  Would actually probably make a good place to watch the northern lights from as you get a true 360 degree view without much effort…

Also…  I’ve already posted links to the full galleries here, but again, at 68north.com I’ve added two new galleries for my summer and autumn trips.

-CLICK HERE- for summer Lofoten photos

-CLICK HERE- for autumn Lofoten photos