Journey to Lofoten Islands

Ice on Haukland beach in winter, Lofoten islands, Norway

Photo: Winter dawn at Haukland Beach, Vestvagoy, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Jan 2010

Tuesday I’ll be heading 2,000 kilometres north to the Lofoten Islands.  While Wales is relatively close to Norway, it is always a fairly long journey to get to Lofoten.  I’ll leave Wales at 3:30am for the 3.5 hour drive to Gatwick airport.  I then catch a flight at 9:00am and after a long layover in Oslo, I’ll finally arrive in Bodø at 6:30pm.  In Bodø I’ll do a bit of shopping for food and stove fuel then sit around the ferry terminal until 1:30am when I take the ferry to Moskenes and finally arrive on the islands.  The ferry building is open 24 hours and heated.  I’ve spent many a night here and it’s a saving grace for a cheapo like me.  Normally the ferry takes around 3 hours, but this boat will also be stopping on the island of Røst, so I wont get to Moskenes until around 6:30am Wednesday.  Though this means that I should at least get a few hours of sleep so I wont be too wrecked after 27 hours of travel.

If the weather is good when I arrive I might walk to Reine and catch the ferry over to Vindstad and hike out to Bunes beach for a few days.  Or my other option could be to hike up Reinebringen and camp up there – one of my goals for this trip.  If the weather is crap, the most likely scenario, I’ll probably try and get to Stamsund to rent a car which will also be my home for the next weeks.

 

Lofoten islands winter landscape photo, Norway

Photo: Stormy winter landscape, near Kvalnes, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Jan 2010

Lofoten Islands – Maervoll

Maervoll, Vestvagoy, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Evening light over Maervoll, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Oct. 2011

Lofoten Coast

Coastal scenery, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Rocky coastline, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Sometimes I think the Lofoten Islands are the ultimate lazy man’s photo destination.  This scene is about 5 meters from where I stopped my car along the E10.  Doesn’t get much simpler than that…

Return to Lofoten Islands Feb 2012

Winter storm over snow covered beach, Unstad, Lofoten islands, Norway

Photo: Unstad beach in winter, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Jan 2010

At the End of January I’ll be heading beck north to Norway’s Lofoten Islands for another two week visit.  Seems I can’t stay away very long these days, with my last trip being this past October.

In reference to seasons though, January 2010 was my last winter visit.  So in this respect, it’s been over two years since I saw the islands with a good coating of snow.  Time of year means everything in the north, even no two months are really the same.  Though I’m slightly worried about the warmer than average temperatures the islands have had so far this winter.  I’m hoping February sees a return to normal, or there might not be any snow at all.

While early January has only a few short hours of light, the days are already fairly long by February.  At the start of my trip sunrise will be around 9:15am and sunset 3:20pm.  When I leave two weeks later sunrise will be 8:25am and sunset 4:05.  That’s nearly 1:45 hours more of daylight over a two week period.  The days grow quite fast above the arctic circle.  But the sun will still remain low in the horizon, reaching around 9˚ by the time I leave, so I should still have hours and hours of nice light to work with, weather permitting.

It’s also looking like it will be a good year for the northern lights, so as much as I was looking forward to 14 hours of sleep per night, I think I’ll end up wandering around late at night and looking towards the sky, assuming it’s clear of course.

 

view across Kjerkfjorden in winter

Photo: Winter view over Kjerkfjord, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Jan 2010

 

Snow covered rocks at Unstad beach, Lofoten islands, Norway

Photo: Clearing winter storm at Unstad beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Jan 2010

Haukland Beach – Lofoten Islands

Haukland Beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Haukland Beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Oct. 2011

I usually end up with interesting conditions at Haukland.  It’s immediately before the tunnel to Utakleiv and sheltered by fairly high peaks, making it a good, calmer, backup when Utakleiv is just too stormy to work with.   The beach faces southwest, so it can be a decent sunset location for early spring or late autumn.

Rolvsfjord – Lofoten Islands

Rolvsfjord, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Mountain reflection at Rolvsfjord, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Sept. 2011

One of the cool things about the Lofoten Islands is how localized the weather can be.  This is from a day I was driving along the southern coast from Stamsund towards Valberg and further towards the E-10.  It had been raining with a pretty strong breeze until I went around another turn and found this.  Perfect calm.  A bit further down the road and the rain and wind were back.  I think it looks a bit Lord of the Rings-ish.

Lofoten Coast

Lofoten islands, Norway

Photo: Stormy sky and sea on Lofoten Islands coast.  Sept. 2011

I think at some point this month I’ll make a post with a photo from every day from my last Lofoten trip just so everyone can get a better sense of what the days are like over a week or more.  (Hint: lots of clouds, rain, wind).  This image is from the first set I made and shows the conditions I arrived to.  I found a slightly sheltered area among the rocks that kept the wind down as good as could be in the situation.  The main problem was that I was facing into the wind with passing rain, so I could only manage an image or two before having to clean my lens.

10 Best Lanscape Photos 2011

lenticular cloud sierra nevada mountains californiaPhoto: Lenticular cloud over Sierra Nevada Mountains. April 2011

The last night of a 10 day road trip through the southwest and my favourite photo from the whole trip.  A lone lenticular cloud which had provided some decent color at sunset remained in the sky over the Alabama hills and Sierra Nevada mountains.  A near full moon for
illumination of the foreground and a 2 minute exposure gives a ghostly appearance to the cloud.

My 10 best images from 2011.  Well, maybe ‘best’ is not the correct word and ‘favourite’ would be more appropriate.  I thought about repeating last year’s ‘best from each month’ concept, but it wouldn’t have worked very well for this year.  For the most part I was largely directionless for extended periods of time, with the whole of the spring/summer basically a black hole for me photographically.  For the year overall there were some brief moments of productivity, but most of the time I was failing to achieve my goals visually.  I don’t really feel I grew at all photographically or found myself pushing my boundaries visually.  Much of the time I was struggling to even repeat images/ideas that I had made in the past, much less expand my vision and style forwards.  Hopefully 2012 provides more fertile ground as this last year seems mostly a waste to me.  Barely being able to tread water, much less chase my dreams.

Black Cuillins, Isle of Skye, ScotlandPhoto: Clearing winter storm over Black Cuillins, Isle of Skye, Scotland.  January 2011

Returning from New Year out on Scotland’s Outer Hebrides I decided to stay the night on the Isle of Skye.  As I awoke to heavy clouds and a light falling snow my hopes of sunrise diminished.  Sitting patiently and looking at the clock, I waited an hour to see if conditions would improve before continuing on the long journey south.  Just as I was about to start the car I noticed a bit of contrast in the sky.  I had dreamed of a ‘Skye in snow’ image for years and this was my first chance.  While it can definitely be improved upon, I still am glad for the opportunity.

Callanish standing stones, ScotlandPhoto: Callanish standing stones, Isle of Lewis, Scotland.  January 2011

I’m fascinated by standing stones.  This was my second visit to Callanish in as many months.  The rain held off into the night allowing me a bit of time to play around with some lighting of the stones.  I think this image helps show a bit of scale and how large the stones actually are.

Isle of Lewis, ScotlandPhoto: Coastal rocks, Butt of Lewis, Isle of Lewis, Scotland.  January 2011

Winds and heaves seas battered this most northerly part of the Isle of Lewis.  Rain showers were sweeping across the headlands with only brief interludes as the short winter day transitioned into night.  Beyond these rocks is 500 miles of the cold north Atlantic before one reaches Iceland.  Truly a feeling of being at the end of the world, or perhaps just Scotland.

Bandon Beach OregonPhoto: Bandon Beach, Oregon.  August 2011

With a 13 hour drive back home to California I struggled with the decision to get out of bed in the early morning hours or not.  I couldn’t see the sky from my campground, but I went ahead and made the 30 minute drive down the coast to Bandon.  I arrived to the sound the fog horn blasting into the morning darkness and the roaring of waves against the coast.  On the beach conditions were better than I could have expected.  Low tide and a calm wind, perfect for Bandon.  As the morning progressed a bit of color arrived before the dawn.  I was utterly exhausted by the time I got home late that night, but thankful for it.

Grand Canyon snowPhoto: Bright Angel trail and snow, Grand Canyon.  April 2011

It had been a last minute decision to head to the Grand Canyon.  Arriving in early evening to a foot of fresh snow on the ground and the possibility of the closure of all national parks due to the failure of the govt. to pass a budget I wasn’t really sure it was worth it.  Awaking the next day to a snow covered campsite and gray skies, I went out exploring a bit.  I hadn’t been to the GC in 10 years and finding my way around snow covered roads took a bit of extra effort.  At some point in the morning the storm began to clear and I found my way to the upper section of the Bright Angel trail.  I like the contrast of snow and desert in this image, a sight I don’t see too often.

Lofoten islands coast, NorwayPhoto: Dark skies over Vestfjord, Stamsund, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  October 2011

This is one of my favourite view points while staying in Stamsund.  Not because it’s the most spectacular view in the world, but because it’s a place I can return to again and again and always see something new.  I can watch the spring sunrise from here.  I can see the autumn’s first snow or (as in the next photo) the sky filled with the Northern Lights.  The sea can be rough and white capped with mist filling the air or as still as a pond.  This view reflects the moods and temperament of the Islands.

Northern Lights Lofoten Islands NorwayPhoto: Northern Lights over Vestfjord, Stamsund, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  October 2011

The last night (beginning to see a trend here) of two weeks on the Lofoten Islands.  The perfect conspiracy of conditions for the best Northern Lights I’ve ever seen.  I wish I had had a wider lens to show more of the sky, as it was completely filled with light, dancing and swaying from second to second.

Utakleiv beach, Lofoten islands, NorwayPhoto: Utakleiv, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  October 2011

It was another one of my stormy days at Utakleiv.  The tied seemed particularly low this day and I wandered out on the slippery rocks towards the edge of the sea.  My attention was focused towards my feet as the rain forced me to keep my lens pointing downwards.  I came across this scene of one rock burrowed into another.  The work of a 100 years of waves.

Frankenjura bouldering, GermanyPhoto: Frankenjura bouldering, Germany.  November 2011

Towards the end of November I found myself back among the old familiar rocks of the Frankenjura region.  Dark and misty forests, cold temperatures and short days.  Not the most ideal climbing conditions, but so it goes.  A bit of off-camera flash in the middle of a dyno to the next hold gives a bit of depth to the image.

Too Close to the Sea

Utakleiv beach, Lofoten islands, Norway

Photo: Utakleiv, Lofoten islands, Norway. Oct 2011

I’m pretty good at watching waves, but there are times while trying to push things to the very edge that I wait a little too long and have to go running.

Here are a couple outtakes from being a little too close to the elements.  In the first series I managed to grab my tripod and hop away onto another rock with only slightly wet shoes.  In the second set I was able to shield my camera, but was basically given a salt water shower as the wave crashed over me.  I was in a safe place behind a small jetty, but had to dry myself off by the fire for a bit.

Photo out take

Stormy sea lofoten islands

Photo: Stormy sea along rocky coast, Stamsund, lofoten Islands, Norway. Oct 2011

Wave

Unstad – Lofoten Islands

Unstad beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Last light at Unstad beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway. Oct 2011