Butt of Lewis Winter Storm

Outer Hebrides Butt of Lewis lighthouse storm

Photo: Large winter waves crash into cliffs below lighthouse at Butt of Lewis, Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides, Scotland.  Jan 2, 2012

After bringing in the new year on Berneray, we took the ferry to the isle of Harris and then drove north to the Butt of Lewis, the northern most point on the Outer Hebrides.  The cliffs here are the first point of land reached by hundreds of miles of wind and waves coming from the north Atlantic.  And in the gale force winds on early January 2012, the waves were pounding the cliffs with a fury and power that I normally only see in nature documentaries.  While the waves can and do get bigger here, it was still quite an impressive sight and even there seemed to be a few locals turning up to checkout the show.

I tried my best to capture some images, but the combination of low light levels, high winds and my all too light tripod didn’t do much to help the situation.  I couldn’t even let go of my camera or everything would blow over.  I managed to find a few locations that wont overly affected by sea spay, but these weren’t always the most ideal views.  If I were some cameraman a BBC documentary, it would have been one of those behind the scenes moments where they talk about extreme working conditions.  I also found it difficult to show scale in the scene.  I’d estimate the cliffs at about 40-45 ft in height.  The lighthouse tower is 121 ft high, so that helps a bit in that image.

Outer Hebrides Butt of Lewis winter storm

Photo: Watching waves crash into rocks at Butt of Lewis, Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides, Scotland.  Jan 2, 2012

 

Outer Hebrides Butt of Lewis winter storm

 

Outer Hebrides Butt of Lewis winter storm

 

Outer Hebrides Butt of Lewis winter storm

 

Outer Hebrides Butt of Lewis winter storm

Scotland

Isle of Lewis storm waves

Photo: Waves crash into coastal headlands at the Butt of Lewis, Isle of Lewis, Scotland.  Jan 2, 2012

I woke up at 3:00 AM Monday morning to the sound of rain pattering against the car.  It was my second night camping in Glencoe, a brief stopover on the way back south from a week on the Western Isles over the New Year.  More rain I thought to myself.  Endless Damned rain!   Uggghhh.  Sunrise would arrive in 5 hours, but I knew I would see nothing but a wet grey sky.  So at that, I got in the drivers seat and headed into the darkness across Rannoch Moor to start the 8 hour drive back to Wales.

Now Scotland is not exactly a sunny country, but it turns out I decided to head north to catch the last days of the wettest December in a hundred years.  And I have no doubt the trend was continuing right along into 2012 without stop.  From December 31st on Berneray to the early days of January on the Isles of Lewis, Harris and across to Skye, a gale blew, non-stop, day and night, forever.  I’m no stranger to bad weather, but usually there is some calm at some point.  Not here, not for me.  I never knew the wind could blow so much for so long.  And it’s not as if I even caught the start of it, it has been blowing up there for weeks.  It’s as if there is some hole in the atmosphere above Scotland and all the the earth’s air is escaping, though not prior to releasing an ocean’s worth of rain.

At times I could hardly walk.  Sometimes hail fell so hard I though the car’s windshield would crack.  Huge Atlantic swells battered the headlands at the Butt of Lewis,  sending spray high into the air and seeming to make the ground shake with their power.  There were even cancelations of the ferries to the islands, a rare thing.  Though I’m sure a captain or two would have tried to take a boat across if he could. I think some of them must be born of the sea itself after hearing about some of their crossings.

So despite the conditions and feelings of frustration and failure, I did manage to find some fleeting moments to make some images.  Maybe not the images I had in my mind, but a few decent ones none the less.  And more reason to return again in the future.  I’ll add more details and photos over the next days.

 

Haukland Beach – Lofoten Islands

Haukland Beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Haukland Beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Oct. 2011

I usually end up with interesting conditions at Haukland.  It’s immediately before the tunnel to Utakleiv and sheltered by fairly high peaks, making it a good, calmer, backup when Utakleiv is just too stormy to work with.   The beach faces southwest, so it can be a decent sunset location for early spring or late autumn.

Rolvsfjord – Lofoten Islands

Rolvsfjord, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Mountain reflection at Rolvsfjord, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Sept. 2011

One of the cool things about the Lofoten Islands is how localized the weather can be.  This is from a day I was driving along the southern coast from Stamsund towards Valberg and further towards the E-10.  It had been raining with a pretty strong breeze until I went around another turn and found this.  Perfect calm.  A bit further down the road and the rain and wind were back.  I think it looks a bit Lord of the Rings-ish.

Lofoten Coast

Lofoten islands, Norway

Photo: Stormy sky and sea on Lofoten Islands coast.  Sept. 2011

I think at some point this month I’ll make a post with a photo from every day from my last Lofoten trip just so everyone can get a better sense of what the days are like over a week or more.  (Hint: lots of clouds, rain, wind).  This image is from the first set I made and shows the conditions I arrived to.  I found a slightly sheltered area among the rocks that kept the wind down as good as could be in the situation.  The main problem was that I was facing into the wind with passing rain, so I could only manage an image or two before having to clean my lens.

Return to the Western Isles

overlooking Sound of Harris, Berneray, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

Photo: View over Sound of Harris, Berneray, Scotland.

For the New Year I’m heading up to Scotland and out to the Western Isles.  I’ll spend New Year’s eve at the cool little hostel on the island of Berneray, where I had good time last year.  The rest of the week I’ll be out and about on North/South Uist, taking in the epic beaches of south Harris and exploring the historic sites of Lewis.

–CLICK HERE– For images from last year.

 

Sunset over Sound of Berneray and North Uist, Western Isles, Scotland

Photo: Sunset over North Uist, Berneray, Scotland.

Morning light on Luskentyre beach, Isle of Harris, Western Isles, Scotland

Photo: Luskentyre beach, Isle of Harris, Scotland.

Isle of Harris Beach

Photo: Incoming tide, Isle of Harris, Scotland.

10 Best Lanscape Photos 2011

lenticular cloud sierra nevada mountains californiaPhoto: Lenticular cloud over Sierra Nevada Mountains. April 2011

The last night of a 10 day road trip through the southwest and my favourite photo from the whole trip.  A lone lenticular cloud which had provided some decent color at sunset remained in the sky over the Alabama hills and Sierra Nevada mountains.  A near full moon for
illumination of the foreground and a 2 minute exposure gives a ghostly appearance to the cloud.

My 10 best images from 2011.  Well, maybe ‘best’ is not the correct word and ‘favourite’ would be more appropriate.  I thought about repeating last year’s ‘best from each month’ concept, but it wouldn’t have worked very well for this year.  For the most part I was largely directionless for extended periods of time, with the whole of the spring/summer basically a black hole for me photographically.  For the year overall there were some brief moments of productivity, but most of the time I was failing to achieve my goals visually.  I don’t really feel I grew at all photographically or found myself pushing my boundaries visually.  Much of the time I was struggling to even repeat images/ideas that I had made in the past, much less expand my vision and style forwards.  Hopefully 2012 provides more fertile ground as this last year seems mostly a waste to me.  Barely being able to tread water, much less chase my dreams.

Black Cuillins, Isle of Skye, ScotlandPhoto: Clearing winter storm over Black Cuillins, Isle of Skye, Scotland.  January 2011

Returning from New Year out on Scotland’s Outer Hebrides I decided to stay the night on the Isle of Skye.  As I awoke to heavy clouds and a light falling snow my hopes of sunrise diminished.  Sitting patiently and looking at the clock, I waited an hour to see if conditions would improve before continuing on the long journey south.  Just as I was about to start the car I noticed a bit of contrast in the sky.  I had dreamed of a ‘Skye in snow’ image for years and this was my first chance.  While it can definitely be improved upon, I still am glad for the opportunity.

Callanish standing stones, ScotlandPhoto: Callanish standing stones, Isle of Lewis, Scotland.  January 2011

I’m fascinated by standing stones.  This was my second visit to Callanish in as many months.  The rain held off into the night allowing me a bit of time to play around with some lighting of the stones.  I think this image helps show a bit of scale and how large the stones actually are.

Isle of Lewis, ScotlandPhoto: Coastal rocks, Butt of Lewis, Isle of Lewis, Scotland.  January 2011

Winds and heaves seas battered this most northerly part of the Isle of Lewis.  Rain showers were sweeping across the headlands with only brief interludes as the short winter day transitioned into night.  Beyond these rocks is 500 miles of the cold north Atlantic before one reaches Iceland.  Truly a feeling of being at the end of the world, or perhaps just Scotland.

Bandon Beach OregonPhoto: Bandon Beach, Oregon.  August 2011

With a 13 hour drive back home to California I struggled with the decision to get out of bed in the early morning hours or not.  I couldn’t see the sky from my campground, but I went ahead and made the 30 minute drive down the coast to Bandon.  I arrived to the sound the fog horn blasting into the morning darkness and the roaring of waves against the coast.  On the beach conditions were better than I could have expected.  Low tide and a calm wind, perfect for Bandon.  As the morning progressed a bit of color arrived before the dawn.  I was utterly exhausted by the time I got home late that night, but thankful for it.

Grand Canyon snowPhoto: Bright Angel trail and snow, Grand Canyon.  April 2011

It had been a last minute decision to head to the Grand Canyon.  Arriving in early evening to a foot of fresh snow on the ground and the possibility of the closure of all national parks due to the failure of the govt. to pass a budget I wasn’t really sure it was worth it.  Awaking the next day to a snow covered campsite and gray skies, I went out exploring a bit.  I hadn’t been to the GC in 10 years and finding my way around snow covered roads took a bit of extra effort.  At some point in the morning the storm began to clear and I found my way to the upper section of the Bright Angel trail.  I like the contrast of snow and desert in this image, a sight I don’t see too often.

Lofoten islands coast, NorwayPhoto: Dark skies over Vestfjord, Stamsund, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  October 2011

This is one of my favourite view points while staying in Stamsund.  Not because it’s the most spectacular view in the world, but because it’s a place I can return to again and again and always see something new.  I can watch the spring sunrise from here.  I can see the autumn’s first snow or (as in the next photo) the sky filled with the Northern Lights.  The sea can be rough and white capped with mist filling the air or as still as a pond.  This view reflects the moods and temperament of the Islands.

Northern Lights Lofoten Islands NorwayPhoto: Northern Lights over Vestfjord, Stamsund, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  October 2011

The last night (beginning to see a trend here) of two weeks on the Lofoten Islands.  The perfect conspiracy of conditions for the best Northern Lights I’ve ever seen.  I wish I had had a wider lens to show more of the sky, as it was completely filled with light, dancing and swaying from second to second.

Utakleiv beach, Lofoten islands, NorwayPhoto: Utakleiv, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  October 2011

It was another one of my stormy days at Utakleiv.  The tied seemed particularly low this day and I wandered out on the slippery rocks towards the edge of the sea.  My attention was focused towards my feet as the rain forced me to keep my lens pointing downwards.  I came across this scene of one rock burrowed into another.  The work of a 100 years of waves.

Frankenjura bouldering, GermanyPhoto: Frankenjura bouldering, Germany.  November 2011

Towards the end of November I found myself back among the old familiar rocks of the Frankenjura region.  Dark and misty forests, cold temperatures and short days.  Not the most ideal climbing conditions, but so it goes.  A bit of off-camera flash in the middle of a dyno to the next hold gives a bit of depth to the image.

Too Close to the Sea

Utakleiv beach, Lofoten islands, Norway

Photo: Utakleiv, Lofoten islands, Norway. Oct 2011

I’m pretty good at watching waves, but there are times while trying to push things to the very edge that I wait a little too long and have to go running.

Here are a couple outtakes from being a little too close to the elements.  In the first series I managed to grab my tripod and hop away onto another rock with only slightly wet shoes.  In the second set I was able to shield my camera, but was basically given a salt water shower as the wave crashed over me.  I was in a safe place behind a small jetty, but had to dry myself off by the fire for a bit.

Photo out take

Stormy sea lofoten islands

Photo: Stormy sea along rocky coast, Stamsund, lofoten Islands, Norway. Oct 2011

Wave

Baltic Sea – Germany

Baltic Sea, Germany

Photo: Baltic sea, Warnemuende, Germany. Nov 2011

Gray November along Germany’s Baltic coast.  Probably not the best time to go for a swim, but there’s still a few interesting things around.

Forest trail, Warnemuende, Germany

Photo: Coastal forest, Warnemuende, Germany. Nov 2011

Unstad – Lofoten Islands

Unstad beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Last light at Unstad beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway. Oct 2011