Photo: Lenticular cloud illuminated by full moon over Sierra Nevada mountains, Alabama Hills, California
A 4 image panoramic of the same scene I posted a couple weeks back. Lone Pine peak is the high mountain on the left of the photo, Mount Whitney is about 1/3 from the left, while Mount Williamson is slightly right of center. For a sense of scale, from my position to the summit of Whitney is slightly less than 10,000 ft of elevation gain.
Photo: Elgol and Cuillins, Isle of Skye, Scotland. Jan 2011
The coastal view from Elgol towards the dramatic peaks of the Black Cuillin is one of the most classic images of the Scottish Highlands. This Scene has probably been photographed a million times, yet the constantly changing conditions mean it is rarely the same. The most common view is likely that of misty, gloomy rain, but when conditions are favorable, a thousand results are possible. These four photos represent only an hour and a half of time from a single winter day. One of those days where one could be in ten places at once, too many photos waiting to be made, yet precious little time to make them on a short January day.
As much as I love mountains, I also equally love rugged, stormy coasts. The game of cat and mouse with the crashing waves only inches away. Trying to get the timing of the waves just right, waiting till the last minute before jumping across the rocks and out of danger. Often I leave such places with wet feet at a minimum, occasionally thoroughly soaked.
Photo: Isle of Rum as viewed from Elgol, Isle of Skye, Scotland. Jan 2011
Photo: Looking towards viewing platform at Upper Inspiration Point, Bryce Canyon national park, Utah
Originally Bryce Canyon wasn’t on the list of places to visit, but it’s lucky we went as it turned out to be my favorite place on the trip. I’ve seen tons of pics and generally knew what it looked like, but I didn’t know much else. Such as it’s at an elevation of 8,000 – 9,000 ft, and there’s lots of snow. And mostly that it’s just so cool looking in real life, way better than any photo I can take, even when it’s -10˚ C at sunrise.
After leaving the Grand Canyon, to road took us east to Monument Valley, which I’ve never been before. To me the place was sort of anticlimactic. I’m glad I went and saw it, but its not any place that I’m itchin’ to get back to. I don’t really know why. Perhaps it’s because any possible photo has already been taken 10,000 times, or because of the regulations where you’re not supposed to walk around and explore on your own, or just the ‘tourist farm’ feel of the whole place.
After a night at the campground it was time to head back west, roughly towards Zion np. We first stopped at Coral Pink sand dunes state park in southern Utah, which was pretty cool looking, especially as there was snow on the dunes. But the day was young, the sky overcast, and I got a little bored. On the way to the dunes I saw the sign that said Bryce was 74 miles away. Ah, what the hell, I thought to myself. I’m this close already, gas is $1/gal. cheaper in Utah than California, might as well go check it out.
Photo: Hiking among Hoodoo rock formations of the Queens Garden Trail, Bryce Canyon national park, Utah
Arrived in Bryce Canyon around noon, or was it 1pm, as I never changed my watch for Utah time, don’t even know what they use in Arizona. Doesn’t matter anyways for a landscape photographer, the sun doesn’t care what time zone you’re in. The sky was still somewhat hazy so we spent the afternoon getting familiar with the park and trying to decide good sunset/sunrise locations.
The main area of the park, known as the ‘Amphitheater’ is where the most Hoodoo rock formations are. Not to get into a geological essay here, the Hoodoos are left over sea sediment, eroded my water and freeze/thaw cycles over the years. What this creates is something amazingly cool and almost surreal to look at.
Dawn on the second day arrived cold, bitterly cold. Clouds blocked the eastern sky and the day looked like it would remain overcast again. But luckily by around 8:30am or so, the sky began to clear into a brilliant blue with some nice puffy clouds. We took a nice morning hike down the short and muddy Queens Garden trail, which travels down in to the amphitheater and wanders among the hoodoos. It would have been nice to do some other hikes, but a lot of the trails were closed due to the snow or rockfall danger.
In the afternoon, we mostly hung out in the area of Inspiration point. It was one of those days where I know the light is going to get better later on, but I keep taking photos anyhow because it’s so cool looking. But Bryce is definitely a better sunrise location, at least the amphitheater area, as it faces east. In the late afternoon, the sun falls behind the forested slopes on the western side of the amphitheater and the hoodoos are in the shade before the golden hour arrives. Though once the sun has set, I saw some potential for some nice twilight conditions.
The second morning arrived even colder, and windy this time. But the sky was somewhat clear towards the east, so there where some brief moments of golden sunlight on the Hoodoos. Leaving me glad to have stayed another night and thinking about when I can come back again; autumn seems like it would be a nice time…
CLICK HERE: To view more Bryce Canyon images in my photo gallery.
Photo: Tunnel along Queens Garden Trail, Bryce Canyon national park, Utah
Photo: Hiking among Hoodoo rock formations of the Queens Garden Trail, Bryce Canyon national park, Utah
Photo: Hoodoo rock formations of the Amphitheater, Bryce Canyon national park, Utah
Photo: Hoodoos at sunrise from Sunrise Point, Bryce Canyon national park, Utah
Photo: Boat sheds in winter, Eggum, Lofoten islands, Norway. Jan 2010
In summer, with it’s north facing coastline, Eggum is a popular location for campers hoping to see the midnight sun. The grassy, green fields past the town are often filled with tents and RV’s enjoying the 24 hours of daylight during the Lofoten summer. After the road ends there is also a nice, easy coastal walk which connects to the village of Unstad.
In winter, Eggum is a lonely place. There is no light, and cold northern winds often sweep across the landscape.
Photo: Empty windswept road, Eggum, Lofoten islands, Norway. Jan 2010
Photo: Rocky coastline in winter, Eggum, Lofoten islands, Norway. Jan 2010
Photo: Dawn light from Mather Point, Grand Canyon
In mid April I spent a week on the road around the desert southwest, which is mostly a new area for me. The original plan was to head up to Bishop for a week of bouldering/climbing and hopefully some nice sunny springtime weather. Though seeing as how I haven’t been climbing much lately, I was slightly hesitant that the Buttermilks would tear my fingers apart on the first day and I’d spend the rest of my time sitting around and getting fat on pullaway bread. And so, after a quick stop at REI in Northridge I plugged the Grand Canyon into the GPS. Hmm, it’s far, but not that far, I can get there before dark. And so I headed east instead of north.
Passing into Arizona the skies got darker. Eventually rain began to fall, which turned to sleet and then snow. Arriving at the campground on the south rim by evening, winter had fully arrived. I knew the Grand Canyon received some snow, especially the north rim, but in April? I checked the weather forecast outside the campground office: snow on Saturday, storm clearing by Sunday morning. Cool! I thought, should get a good sunrise opportunity on Sunday. So I go to pay for 2 nights at the campground where I receive the news.
“You can only stay for tonight.” the ranger lady says.
“What? are you full tomorrow or is there too much snow?” I ask.
“No. Congress hasn’t passed the federal budget, so the park is closing tomorrow” I’m told.
“What! seriously?” I mumble in disbelief, getting slightly disgruntled that I may have just driven all this way to only see snow and clouds.
“Yup, No budget means we have to shut down. All other national parks as well”
Bugger. I scramble across the parking lot and through the falling snow back to my truck. A rant full of colorful language runs through my head as I drive to my snow covered campsite for the night. Luckily, while eating noodle soup and listening to fuzzy AM radio from a station too far away to for a clear signal, I hear some emergency budget was passed. I cross my fingers that things should be normal on Saturday and set my alarm for 5am, just in case the storm clears.
Photo: Camp on Saturday morning
Photo: Poor visibility during storm on Saturday morning
Photo: hiking the snowy, muddy Bright Angel trail, Grand Canyon
Photo: Snow covered upper section of Bright Angel trail with view across canyon, Grand Canyon
Saturday arrives with a dull gray and snow still falling, nearly a foot of it now covering the campsite picnic bench. Driving to the canyon rim over the unplowed roads, the visibility is zero. I had a bit of fun driving around the snow covered roads and seeing how close I could get to being stuck. A little before noon the storm began lifting and I wandered a ways down Bright Angel trail. Lots of poor souls were making the hike out of the canyon, many wearing sandals or other light footwear that would normally be appropriate for the hot and dry canyon. Now they were trudging through boggy snow which turned the trail into a sloppy, muddy mess. My trail runners were quickly soaked as well. Wet feet on day one, welcome to my life… good thing I had a spare set of shoes.
The last time I was at the Grand Canyon was some 14-15 years ago as a teenager, so I really had no idea where to go or what to see. I did what’s probably the most obvious thing and waited for sunset at Mather Point. Clouds to the west blocked the sun before it was very low and any color arrived. I was actually slightly content with this as the wind was bitterly cold, and my still wet shoes left me daydreaming of a warm dinner and sleeping bag more than a nice sunset.
Woke up early again Sunday and headed back to Mather point, trying not to slip on the ice covered pathways. While Friday night in the storm was cold, Saturday night’s clear skies dropped the temps to near arctic. Everything inside my truck was frozen, and I was a bit slow moving. Some nice light arrived, only witnessed by a brave few of us. I’ve no idea how rare snow is here, but I’m glad I got to see it, even if it meant a bit of suffering from time to time.
CLICK HERE – To view more photos in my archive
Photo: Snow covered south rim of Grand Canyon
Photo: Sunrise from Mather point, Grand Canyon
Hiking the Besseggen Ridge – Jotunheimen national park, Norway
Photo: Lake Gjende and Bessvatnet from Besseggen ridge, Jotunheimen national park, Norway
The Besseggen ridge hike is one of the most popular in Norway, with some 30,000 people making the trek between Gjendesheim and Memurubu each year. Located in the stunning mountain scenery of Norway’s Jotunheimen national park, the trail roughly follows a ridge on the north side of lake Gjende and provides amazing views of the whole length of the long and colorful lake as it sits surrounded by glaciated mountain peaks.
With a distance of about 8 miles (13 km) and climbing 2,500 feet (759 m) above lake Gjende the hike requires a moderate level of physical fitness. Expect to take 5-7 hours to complete the hike between Gjendesheim and Memurubu. The trail is well marked and easy to follow, and due to its popularity, it’s doubtful you’ll be alone – even in bad and rainy weather.
From Gjendesheim, the trail climbs at a moderate gain for several kilometers until finally reaching a high and rocky alpine plateau. Even if the wind is calm at lake level, it can be cold and windy once up high, be prepared. The steepest and narrowest section occurs shortly after passing the high point of 5,718 feet (1743 M) – marked with a large cairn. After this point, the trail then proceeds to quickly drop down to the southern shore of lake Bessvatnet at 4,504 feet (1373m). Here is were you have one of the best views of Lake Gjende. Lake Bessvatnet represents the approximate half way point and is a good place to sit in the sun (if your lucky) and have a nice lunch.
Continuing from lake Bessvatnet the trail is relatively flat with only moderate climbs/descents until the final short and steep descent to Memurubu and the shores of lake Gjende.
HERE is a good online topo map for all of Norway. Take a quick look so you can get a bit more comfortable with my descriptions and not mix up Gjende for Gjendebu for Gjendesheim. Enter either ‘Besseggen’ or ‘Gjende’ in the search box and hit the ‘Kartsøk’ button. This will get you where you need to look…
Photo: Ferry leaves Memurubu for Gjendesheim (in far distance)
Photo: view east of Besseggen ridge rising above lake Bessvatnet
Day hiking the Besseggen ridge gives one several options on how to go about things and how long of a day is desired.
• Ferry Gjendesheim – Memurubu : Hike Memurubu – Gjendesheim:
A popular way to make the hike is to take the morning ferry from Gjendesheim to Memurubu and make the hike back. This way has the benefit of not having to meet the ferry schedule for a return trip, thus meaning that one can go as slow or fast as wanted. One drawback is you will likely be hiking in a crowd of people all arriving with the boat, unless one sits around Memurubu while the crowd continues up the trail.
• Hike Gjendesheim – Memurubu : Ferry Memurubu – Gjendesheim:
This way one can get an early start and have the trail relatively empty. Though if looking for mountain solitude, I suggest going elsewhere in the park. The main drawback of this way is that one has to keep schedule to catch the ferry back to Gjendesheim. Personally, I think the view is more scenic in this direction, and the sun will be at your back during the morning hours.
• Hike Gjendesheim – Memurubu : Hike Memurubu – Gjendesheim:
For a longer day, it’s possible to hike the ridge to Memurubu and back. Or, to save some tired knees, there is a flat trail that follows the lake, connecting Gjendesheim and Memurubu.
• Ferry Gjendesheim – Gjendebu : Hike Gjendebu – Gjendesheim:
For a long day, take the morning ferry to the end of lake Gjende and Gjendebu and hike back to Gjendesheim. The section between Gjendebu and Memurubu is relatively uncrowded and provides stunning views of lake Gjende and one approaches Memurubu and also some amazing views of Memurudalen – Memuru valley.
CLICK HERE for ferry schedule
CLICK HERE for ferry prices
CLICK HERE for DNT mountain hut info
CLICK HERE for a topo map of Norway. Search ‘Besseggen’ or ‘Gjende’
Photo: Ferry and mountain reflections on lake Gjende from Gjendesheim
Overnight trips to the huts:
The lake ferry boat not only carries people, it will also carry luggage. So, say one is looking to stay overnight at Memurubu or Gjendebu hut, put your luggage on the ferry and hike from Gjendesheim. When you arrive in Memurubu, your bags will be waiting. This can also work in reverse, staying your first night in the hut and then hike back to Gjendesheim while your luggage takes the ferry.
Camping:
Wild camping is possible basically everywhere, the only restrictions being the immediate area around the huts. Water is plentiful and tasty. On the other hand, finding a flat and dry spot to pitch a tent can sometimes take a bit of searching, but is well worth the effort to sleep with some amazing views out the tent door.
Camping near Gjendesheim. Walk past the end of the parking area and continue along the lakeside trail for 100m. Beginning here you you see plenty of places to pitch a tent. Can get a bit crowded on a nice summer weekend.
Photo: Alone in the wilderness. Wild camping in Norway’s Jotunheimen national park
Further into Jotunheimen:
Jutunheimen national park is an amazing place. I highly recommend making a longer hike through the park, either as a multi-day loop or through hike. While I enjoy camping in the wild, it’s also possible to carry a light pack and overnight in the well connected network of huts, many of which also serve food.
When to go:
The main summer season in the Norwegian mountains in July and August. These months will be your best bet for sunny, warm days.
Getting there:
The start or finish of the Besseggen ridge is located at Gjendesheim, on the eastern end of lake Gjende and Jotunheimen national park itself. Here you’ll find a full service DNT hut, a small (expensive!) shop/cafe, toilets, the ferry boat, and parking area.
By Bus:
Several busses travel to Gjendesheim daily. The two options are to travel via Fagernes (to/from Oslo) in the south. To the north the bus travels to Vagamo where one can transfer east to Otta and the train, or continue west through the fjords.
By Train:
There is no direct train link to Jotunheimen national park. If traveling by train, say from Trondheim in the north, exit at Otta, where you will have to take the bus to Vagamo, then on to Gjendesheim. The bus/train does not always meet at a convenient time, so be sure to check schedules.
Transportation links:
NSB – Norwegian train company
Nor-Way – Long distance bus routes incl. Olso – Gjendesheim
Ruteinfo – Local and regional bus information
Gjende – Lake Gjende ferry. Prices and timetable
Other Useful links:
DNT – The Norwegian Trekking Assocaition
Interactive topo map including trails and huts for all of Norway
Norwegian weather
CLICK HERE for more photos of Jotunheimen national park from summer 2010
If there’s anything I seemed to miss, let me know and I’ll try and add it.
Photo: Looking towards Gjendesheim on the shore of lake Gjende from near start/finish of Besseggen Ridge trail
Photo: Full moon illuminates lenticular cloud over Sierra Nevada Mountains and Alabama hills, California
I didn’t quite realize it’s been a month since my last post. But truthfully, I haven’t produced much lately that’s very interesting. And it seems every time I sit down to try and write something, it just ends up as some boring nothingness…
I’ve put up a few photos from the San Felipe Baja 250 in my archive. There aren’t too many from this year – well, there’s more, but they’re mainly behind the scenes stuff from the team I was chasing with, so not really interesting as a whole. Might put them online at some point in the future if I have the time/motivation.
Photo: JCR Honda 1x rider Kendall Norman takes a small lead over KTM’s Kurt Caselli into RM 30 pits, 2011, San Felipe Baja 250
Photo: JCR Honda 1x rider Kendall Norman haulin’ ass into RM 30 pits. 2011, San Felipe Baja 250
Here’s a few first photos from the 2011 San Felipe Baja 250. I was at RM 30 for the first bikes coming through. Headed to the pits at Zoo/Morelia road near RM 90 where I caught the trophy trucks pass by then ending up at the finish for the trophy trucks again.
I was running chase for my Brother and his team on the 209x bike. They ended up finishing 6th place in the 250cc Sportsman class, a good effort as it was the first Baja race for 3 of the 4 riders.
I’ll hopefully get a gallery up later tonight or tomorrow of more race photos. More info soon…
Photo: JCR Honda 6x rider Colton Udall arriving to RM 30. 2011, San Felipe Baja 250
Photo: Jesse James trophy truck north of Zoo Road near Rm 90. 2011, San Felipe Baja 250
Photo: Crowds await the arrivial of first trophy truck at finish. 2011, San Felipe Baja 250
Photo: Jesse Jones trophy truck finishing fast. 2011, San Felipe Baja 250
Photo: Jesse James trophy truck finishing. 2011, San Felipe Baja 250
