Lofoten Winter

Lofoten Islands winter sunset

Photo: Winter sunset, near Å, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Jan 2010

I’m arriving back on the Lofoten Islands this morning and looking forwards to another 2 weeks of winter landscape photography along with a bit of climbing.  Like usual though, it seems I have a bit of bad luck with my timing.  While the last weeks have been brilliantly calm and still, with many sunny day, the weather is now supposed to turn turbulent as the weekend approaches, with even rain being likely – which is not good!  But as always, this is how it is on the islands, so I’ll have to make do with what I get.  And there is always next time.  Wish me luck…

lofoten-weather-forecast

Back to Lofoten

Northern Lights - Aurora Borealis in night sky behind Olstind mountain peak, Reine, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Northern Lights over Olstinden, Reine, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Feb 2012  

I’m getting my bags packed for another winter trip to Lofoten.  I fly from the UK on Tuesday morning and arrive north of the Arctic Circle in Bodø, Norway in the evening.  Then I catch the 01:30am ferry to Moskenes, arriving on Lofoten around 07:00am Wednesday morning.  The weather has been good for the last week of so, but it is looking to become somewhat unsettled once I arrive, that’s just how it goes in the north.

Change of travel plans. I’ll spend 2 weeks on Lofoten and then fly down to Stockholm, Sweden for a few days before returning home to California in early March.  I was originally planning on returning to the UK, but I’ve had to make some adjustments to my travels.  On the bright side, I’ll only be in California for about 2 months before heading back to Lofoten at the end of April.  Not too bad considering I wasn’t even sure if I would get to Lofoten at all in 2013.

Reflection of Olstind mountain peak in harbour at Reine, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Olstinden rises above Reine in winter, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Feb 2012

gear

Photo: Packing the winter climbing gear for Lofoten.

backpack

Photo: About time for me to get a new backpack, I hope it lasts the next 3 weeks…

Skottinden Hiking Guide

Skottinden Lofoten Islands Norway

Photo: Reflection of Skottinden, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  September 2012

It’s another year and time for more mountain pages to be added over at 68north.com  The first for 2013 is Skottinden -CLICK HERE- to check it out.

Skottinden is one of those peaks that I’ve always thought about hiking up, likely due to its Matterhorn-like appearance, but never really got around to hiking.  Thanks to some young Germans at the hostel who had borrowed the book ‘På Tur I Lofoten’ – The best hiking guide for Lofoten Islands, though only in Norwegian, I saw where the route went.  And so, on one late September day about a month later, I found myself on the summit and watching sea eagles circle in the distance.

Skottinden Lofoten Islands Norway

Photo: Skottinden, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  September 2012

Lofoten Islands in February

Winter storm over snow covered beach, Unstad, Lofoten islands, Norway

Photo: Unstad beach in winter, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  January 2010

Over Christmas I bought myself just a single present, and at least one thing to look forward to in the new year:  Flights to Lofoten!

On the evening of Feb 12, I’ll land in Bodø.  I chose to fly on a Tuesday for a couple reasons.  First, because the flight was pretty cheap.  And more importantly for me, sleep.  Or more specifically, the ferry to the islands leaves Bodø at 01:30 early Wednesday morning.  And this ferry travels via the island of Væerøy instead of direct to Moskenes, which means that I’ll have to possibility of about 5 hours of somewhat comfortable sleep before arriving on the islands; the padded seats of the ferry being much more comfortable than the floor of the waiting room in Bodø.   And since I’ll have been up since about 02:00 Tuesday morning for the 3.5 hour drive to the airport from Wales, 5 hours of sleep will be much enjoyed!  And then I’m on the islands shortly before sunrise and ready for the day instead of walking around like some zombie in some sleep deprivation coma.

I haven’t booked my return ticket yet as I actually don’t know where I’ll go when I leave.  The default would be back to the UK for a few weeks before heading back to California, but I’m not sure if they’ll let me back in or not.  The other possibility would be just go directly home to California after Lofoten.  Or a third option, but more difficult option, stay in Europe a bit longer.  It’s really been on my mind to make a ski tour of the northern Kungsleden, but this will probably be a bit difficult for me logistically so might have to wait a few more years.

I’m also going to be a little more ambitious on this trip and bring my winter climbing gear (ice tools, boots/crampons, etc) and maybe try and get up a few easy mountains (solo), or if I’m lazy, just do a bit of roadside ice climbing (no lack of this in Lofoten) on days with crappy weather.  Should at least be better than sitting around the car and reading to pass the time away.  And if by some amazing chance there is a forecast for calm weather for a day or two, I might even try and camp on Reinebringen for a night.

In the past year I’ve spend 2 months north of the Arctic Circle, but for the most part, the Northern Lights eluded me.  Mostly this was down to bad luck in my timing as on numerous occasions I missed fantastic displays by only a day or two.  Or the only time I did witness a good showing, I was on a damn boat!  So fingers crossed for a little more luck this year…

Winter sunrise on frozen lake Urvatnet, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Urvatnet winter sunrise, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February 2012

ice on Nedre Heimdalsvatnet, Eggum, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Ice covers Nedre Heimdalsvatnet, Eggum, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February 2012

Northern Lights - Aurora Borealis in night sky behind Olstind mountain peak, Reine, Lofoten Islands, Norway

10 Best Landscape Photos 2012

Reine, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Night comes to Reine, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February

-10˚ C with not even a hint of wind, the end of an absolutely perfect winter day on Lofoten.  This was the first clear night after a week on the islands, so I was waiting around the Reine area in hopes of seeing some aurora’s later that night, but first, I was presented with this scene as an extra gift.  Perhaps my favourite image of the whole year, as well as the coldest day of 2012 on Lofoten.

Northern Lights - Aurora Borealis in night sky behind Olstind mountain peak, Reine, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Aurora behind Olstinden, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February

I had been waiting a week for the right conditions to hopefully make this photograph.  To me, the pyramidical peak of Olstinden, as is rises out of the cold waters of the Kjerkfjord, is an icon of the Lofoten Islands.  The Aurora wasn’t as big as I was hoping for, but it’s a start to an image that I hope to refine over my next journeys to the islands.  I think the clouds make it almost look like an erupting volcano.

Å I Lofoten, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Approaching storm, Å, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February

My last full day after two weeks on the islands was one of winter storms sweeping the lands.  One of those days when you watch the snow heading towards you, take shelter for 20 minutes, then rush out again between flurries to hopefully grab a few photo.  The cliffs here, past the village of Å, and looking west towards the end of Lofoten are one of my favourite winter locations on the islands.

Lofoten Islands winter, Norway

Photo: Ice flower, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February

Warm temperatures brought snow melting rain to the islands.  My hope of ‘snowy mountain landscapes’ was lost and I was left searching for other interesting elements of winter to photograph.   Here, in a small tidal bay near Eggum, a rock had created a ‘flower’ like shape as the ice receded.  Now that the snow was gone, this added an element of interest to what would otherwise have been a fairly flat and mundane scenic.

Reine, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Olstinden winter panoramic, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  February

In the cold and the calm of this evening the surface of the fjord began to freeze over.  With the inner waters still, Olstinden reflects in near perfect symmetry.  I wish there had been a bit more interesting light to work with, but I think the subject is still strong enough for me to like this image.

Mount Whintey, Sierra Nevada Mountains, California

Photo: Camping beneath mt Whitney, California.  April

I like the contrast of my yellow tent and the deep blue of the evening sky while camped at Iceberg lake on the mountaineers route to mt. Whitney.

Horseid beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Horseid beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  August

Horseid is a brilliant, Isolated, beach on the northern coast of Lofoten.  I hiked several hours through rain and whiteouts that at first I thought I had made a mistake heading there.  But by the next morning, the rain had stopped while the dramatic skies still hung over the mountains.

 

Summer evening twilight, Stamsund, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Summer twilight over Stamsund, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  August

Even in late August, Lofoten’s sky still glows at 1am as the next day quickly approaches.  I took an evening stroll up the hill behind the hostel to check for auroras but found this scene instead.  I just stood there for a while in the stillness, glad to once again be in the north.

Kungsleden trail, Lappland, Sweden

Photo: Autumn on the Kungsleden trail, Lapland, Sweden.  September

I can feel the cold in this image (as well as remember it).  The bright reds and oranges or the small scrubs in the sub-Arctic tundra of northern Sweden’s mountain, combined with snow covered peaks and grey skies are what the Kungsleden trail in Autumn is.

Offersoykammen, Vestvagoya, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Afternoon light on Offersøykammen, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  October

After an unsuccessful afternoon of chasing light around the islands, I finally decided to head up the small peak of Offersøykammen and see what cards the weather would deal me.  As the sun neared the horizon, clouds began to rise around the mountain.  But before I was enveloped in a gray so thick I could hardly follow the trail back down, the mist lit up in the sunlight shining a golden light across the Autumn mountain landscape.

Time for another year to draw to a close, though truthfully, I can’t say it comes too soon.  2012 was a difficult year for me,  one of more setbacks than accomplishments.  A few dreams have fallen through the cracks or been put on the the back burners indefinitely, with little hopes of revival.  I also didn’t get out photographing nearly as much as I’d planned (as I write this now, I haven’t touched my camera in almost in 2 months.).  If it wasn’t for a few trips to Lofoten, I’d basically have nothing to show for the whole year; 8 of 10 images here being from the islands, although maybe that speaks more about the brilliance of Lofoten.  I felt I was often stuck in the paralysis of inaction, unable to make any decisions or move myself or my career forward.  Maybe I put myself under more pressure to return with something ‘good,’ and ironically, chose locations to travel to where this is less likely to happen.  Or maybe I’ve simply raised my standards to something that I can only rarely achieve; and thus that lack of apparent achievement continues the cycle ad infinitum.  Who knows.

On the positive side, I do think there are a few good images here.  Maybe even a couple that I’d say are some of my all time favourites.  Although I’m not sure if this isn’t more based on my memories than of the actual photo.

In a couple more days I head north to Scotland to bring in 2013 on a small little island at the edge of the world.  So here’s to a good start of the new year; one that hopefully I can find some focus and kick some ass in!

Ryten – New Mountain Hiking Guide

Ryten, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Lofoten’s northern coast from the summit of Ryten, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  August 2012

New hiking guide for Ryten -CLICK HERE- 

Ryten is one of the last peaks in the northeast tip of Moskenesøya.  But the small mountain is better known for it’s spectacular views down to Kvalvika beach.  I now have a new guide up at 68north for hiking this scenic little peak.

This will be my last update at 68north for the year, I’ll pick things back up in January with a few more hiking guides and also some more general travel ‘itinerary’ type guides and so on.  I’m also going to really put some effort into writing some more photography-specific guides to each island which I can hopefully turn into some (free) eBook’s so you can download and take with you on your photo tour of Lofoten.  Only setback will be the design aspect, which I’m not so good at…

Looking down on Kvalvika beach from near summit of Ryten, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Spectacular Kvalvika beach seen from summit of Ryten, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  August 2012

Person stands under rainbow near summit of Ryten, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Summer rain and rainbow over Ryten, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  August 2012

Himmeltindan Hiking Guide – Lofoten Islands

View from summit of Himmeltindan

Photo: View from summit of Himmeltindan, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Oct 2012

There’s now a new hiking guide for Himmeltindan over at 68north.

-CLICK HERE-

The highest mountain on Vestvågøya, Himmeltindan is a steep hike up to the 931 meters of the south summit.  The higher north summit is closed to the public, as it is used as a military radar station.  And there is actually a tunnel/elevator running inside the mountain.  On the day I hiked the peak though, there were a few army dudes at the top who said I could hike over to the north summit as the radar was down for repair that day.  I may have been a bit unlucky with the light, but at least I got access to the highest part of the mountain.  If I was in the army, I think I’d take the elevator up there to watch the northern lights, would be a pretty awesome place!

Himmeltindan and Utakleiv Lofoten Islands Norway

Photo: Himmeltindan rises above sea at Utakleiv, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  Oct 2012

Hoven – Lofoten Islands

Hoven mountain peak, Gimsoya, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Hoven rises above marshland of Gimsøya, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  October 2012

New hiking guide for Hoven -CLICK HERE- over at 68north.com.

Hoven is a small little peak/hill that rises alone out of the boggy flats of northern Gimsøya.  It makes a nice easy hike for those days when the weather isn’t the best but maybe you still want to get outside.  The low elevation means that the summit is usually below the clouds while the other higher peaks are concealed.  And the views aren’t that bad anyhow.  Would actually probably make a good place to watch the northern lights from as you get a true 360 degree view without much effort…

Also…  I’ve already posted links to the full galleries here, but again, at 68north.com I’ve added two new galleries for my summer and autumn trips.

-CLICK HERE- for summer Lofoten photos

-CLICK HERE- for autumn Lofoten photos

Lofoten Islands – Horseid Beach Hiking Guide

Horseid beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Horseid beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  August 2012

Over at 68north.com I’ve just added a new hiking guide for Horseid Beach -CLICK HERE- to check it out.

One of Lofoten’s most scenic beaches, it is also one of the least visited.  The short article provides info on getting to Horseid via the ferry from Reine as well as a few suggestions as to the best places to camp.  Also a few more photos as well…

Tent camping at Horseid beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Wilde camping at Horseid beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  August 2012

Lofotens Best Beaches Travel Guide

Kvalvika beach panoramic lofoten islands norway

Photo: Kvalvika Beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  August 2012

I’ve written a new article over at 68north.com about the best beaches on the Lofoten Islands. If you’re interested, they are: Kvalvika, Bunes, and Horseid.  All my personal opinion of course, but I’ve you’ve been there, I think you’ll agree.  And if you haven’t been to any of them yet, head over to the website for more detailed info about getting to them and a few more photos…

–CLICK HERE– to check it out.

Horseid beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway

Photo: Mountain reflection on Horseid beach, Lofoten Islands, Norway.  August 2012